Chase the joy, but don’t touch the monkey!
The entrace of Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary just outside New Delhi, India
In October 2023, I landed in India for the very first time, practically buzzing with excitement. I was there to speak at a high-profile startup conference, a thrilling milestone in my career. But beyond that, I couldn’t wait to explore a country teeming with wildlife—particularly the incredible birds I’d never encountered before. And while I did meet some truly astonishing feathered friends, the very first story I need to share took a completely unexpected turn. Because aside from the birds, there was a monkey…
Monkeys are everywhere in New Delhi. These Rhesus Macaques roam the streets, flea markets, parks—just about any place you can think of. With their pinkish faces, human-like features, and light brown fur, they often gather in groups that really do look like families.
I arrived in Delhi just as the G20 summit was wrapping up and knew from the news (including a CNN report) that these monkeys were causing a bit of international concern. The first time I encountered them during the trip was at Chandni Chowk market, riding in a wobbly rickshaw with my guide. I was clutching my camera as we bumped along an unpaved road when suddenly I spotted a monkey perched on a tree, having just stolen food from a stall below. I hopped out of the rickshaw to take some photos, amazed by the scene—though the locals seemed equally amazed by my fascination.
A day after my conference talk, I ventured to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary with my guide, CB, and his daughter, Hina. I was excited to see Painted Storks and their babies. While walking, I noticed a small, likely juvenile monkey trailing behind an elegant, tall Indian gentleman and his pretty, shorter wife. I couldn’t help but coo, “Aww, what a cute monkey!”
The man spoke softly, asking in a gentle Indian accent if I wanted to hold the monkey. I knew better than to handle wildlife and declined. But he scooped up the monkey anyway, cradling it like a baby. He approached me again, urging me to hold it. As he offered the monkey forward, I hesitated, but the monkey looked so sweet. I reached out, arms extended as though embracing an infant.
The cute culprit
Then, in a flash, the monkey lashed out at my right hand! Everything happened so fast I couldn’t tell if it had bitten or scratched me. My hand stung, and I was suddenly very worried about rabies. Hina examined the wound and concluded it was likely just a scratch—if i
t had been a bite, we’d see clear teeth marks. Still, my hand hurt, and I was rattled.
We continued toward the Painted Storks, but both CB and I were uneasy. The monkey followed us, and I kept asking passersby, “Should I get a rabies shot?” Everyone said yes. The thought of it weighed on me, but I tried to focus on the birds. They were magnificent—nesting on small islands in the wetlands, flying back and forth with twigs and food for their young. It reminded me of heron rookeries back home.
But the monkey wouldn’t leave us alone. At one point, it even tugged on my pants, seemingly interested in my phone. Now both Hina and I were genuinely frightened. She bravely chased it off with a stick. The midday heat was sweltering, and we decided it was time to head back.
As we drove through the small rural town near the sanctuary, we spotted a pharmacy. CB hopped out to inquire about rabies shots. They had them—and I’d need two. “So be it,” I sighed. The pharmacist gave me one injection in my arm and another at the back of my waist. They stung but weren’t too painful.
The next day, though, I felt awful. I had chills, a fever, and felt sniffly. I was en route to Paris for another startup immigration speaking engagement at the International Bar Association. Fortunately, I’d allowed an extra day before my presentation to adjust to the time zone. After sleeping off the fever and chills, I recovered enough to spend time with my sister, who had come from London to meet me. We wandered the streets of Paris, photographing birds near landmarks, and by the time I had to present, I felt like myself again.
It turns out rabies shots can make you feel quite sick—but they’re absolutely worth it for your safety. Through this adventure, I learned my lesson: Chase the joy, but don’t touch the monkey! … unless you’re with experienced monkey trainers who work with habituated animals, like the Mona Monkeys in Grenada, West Indies—that’s a story for another time.
